The Houseboat

 Traditional Kettuvallam houseboats are to Kerala’s backwaters what gondolas are to Venice’s canals and punts are to the waterways of Cambridge and Oxford. Their presence on the water was once a means of transportational necessity. Nowadays, they are a vacational necessity for any discerning visitor to Kerala.

What are they?

Their delightful appearance is of a thatched cottage floating on water. Made from local naturally occurring products, the wooden hull is made from planks of anjili, an evergreen local tree that is comparable in quality with teak. The anjili planks are sealed using coir, the natural fibres on the husk of a coconut, and dark brown resin made from cashew nut oil. Traditionally, no metal nails were used in the boat’s construction. The arched upper part of the boat is made from further natural materials with a bamboo frame overlaid with tightly woven palm leaves, and fastened using coir rope.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, therefore, the literal meaning of Kettuvallam is ‘bundle’ or ‘package’ boat: Kettumeans “tied with ropes,” and vallam means, “boat,” in the local language, Malayalam.

They once plied the backwaters carrying rice and other produce. However, modern transportation methods are now more affordable and have taken over. The Kettuvallam had been left to idle. That was until a bright spark refitted a boat to carry tourists, in order to reach the tranquil and remote backwater idylls. The lush green palm-fringed waterways have long been uniquely accessible only by boat and the Kettuvallam houseboats have now become a staple part of a Kerala itinerary.

The Boat

Most Kettuvallams are laid out in variations of the same theme. At the front sits the driver with a wheel and simple forward / back thruster. Exposed to the elements, his only shelter was an umbrella to shield him from the rain or sunshine.

Behind him, open to the sun, we had a day lounger mattress, with a fresh white sheet put in place each day, a couple of cushions and coffee table. Under the palm woven roof, was our dining table where each meal was taken. By night, they dropped a fully enclosed mosquito net, which was not entirely necessary but a welcome addition, nonetheless. Add to that a ceiling fan, a few plugs to charge mobile phones and a couple of lamps and lights. It was basic but wonderfully complete.

With a short and narrow corridor on the left had side, the only enclosed room was our bedroom. Fitted out with a large and comfortable double bed, mosquito net, air conditioning, a couple of plug sockets and small ensuite toilet and shower room, it was exactly the standard of comfort and cleanliness for which we were hoping.

Behind our room and bathroom was the surprisingly large kitchen, with gas stoves, sink and food preparation area, with two large cool boxes stuffed full of fruit, drinks and fresh ingredients.

The small open area at the rear of the boat was home to the air conditioning unit and not much further space. On the larger vessels, large generators were often strapped into place here.

The classic design of the Kettuvallam allows for panels of the lattice palm leaves to be wedged open with bamboo struts, letting light in and allowing the air to circulate more freely, further adding to their distinctive shape.

The shallow draft of the vessel allows for navigation of the smaller canals and an intimate journey into another, lusher and more peaceful realm of India.

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